Body Surfing: A Novel
Average customer rating: 3.5 out of 5 stars
  • Underblown
  • A book that leaves questions unanswered
  • A beach idyll
  • Anita Shreve is a five star novelist!
  • Love Anita Shreve, very disappointed though.
Body Surfing: A Novel
Anita Shreve
Manufacturer: Little, Brown and Company
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 0316059854
Release Date: 2007-04-24

Amazon.com

The beach house in New Hampshire which figured in Anita Shreve's The Pilot's Wife, Fortune's Rocks, and Sea Glass is once again featured in Body Surfing. This time, it is the summer home of the Edwards family, Anna and Mark and daughter Julie. Mrs. Edwards has great hopes for Julie, who is "slow," so she hires Sydney to tutor her, in preparation for her senior year. There are two older brothers, Jeff and Ben, whose arrival changes the household dynamic considerably.

Once again, Shreve revisits the minefield of love and betrayal that she has explored so well in her best novels. Sydney is 29, twice married, once divorced, and once a widow. She is floundering, not sure she wants to go back to school, accepting whatever job comes along and then moving on. She answers the ad for a tutor and finds herself in the Edwards household, where she discovers that Julie has undiscovered artistic talent. Mrs. Edwards dislikes her instantly, is dismissive, and treats her like a servant. Mr. Edwards befriends her, shows her his roses and talks to her about the history of the house, giving the reader a rundown of the role the house has played in prior novels.

Sydney, Jeff, and Ben go body surfing late one night and Sydney is sure that Ben has tried to grope her underwater. She takes immediate umbrage at this and treats him coldly thereafter. Shreve's other work has a steady narrative flow, but this novel is episodic and disjointed. There is the the arrival of Jeff's girlfriend, her departure, an evening when Julie comes home drunk and won't talk about it, and a liaison between Sydney and Jeff which leads to the complications that eventually define the novel. There is a twist at the end, involving the brothers, that is divisive, destructive and rather hard to believe.

While this is not Shreve's best effort, because the characters are not well-defined, it is worth reading her take on what happens to people when they compete for love. --Valerie Ryan

Book Description

At the age of 29, Sydney has already been once divorced and once widowed. Trying to regain her footing once again, she has answered an ad to tutor the teenage daughter of a well-to-do couple as they spend a sultry summer in their oceanfront New Hampshire cottage.But when the Edwards' two grown sons, Ben and Jeff, arrive at the beach house, Sydney finds herself caught up in a destructive web of old tensions and bitter divisions. As the brothers vie for her affections, the fragile existence Sydney has rebuilt for herself is threatened. With the subtle wit, lyrical language, and brilliant insight into the human heart that has led her to be called "an author at one with her m+tier" (Miami Herald), Shreve weaves a novel about marriage, family, and the supreme courage that it takes to love.

Customer Reviews:

3 out of 5 stars Underblown.......2007-10-11

I have enjoyed many of Anita Shreve's novels. A reviewer once wrote, in describing another of Shreve's works (paraphrased)"..in a somber voice, Shreve leads us on". At the time I thought this was a wonderful description of Shreve's style and a testament to her artistry. That phrase also applies to this book, but only in the sense of describing the style. This book is written sparely, is indeed miserly, when it comes to character development and dialogue. The characters feel as if they have been neutered, turned into androids, and are reading every third line of a conversation. And yet, this is supposed to be a love story. I won't reprise the plot here, other reviewers have done that well. But as far as feeling for the characters; joy during their courtship, sadness when it comes, I was left untouched. I was tempted to count the number of sentences any character in this book speaks that has more than 6 words in it. Here is a brief example; (Sydney encounters an older woman whose husband has recently died), "Sydney guesses there are few normal meals now. She walks to the counter, "I'm so sorry" she says. "Why should you be sorry?" Mrs. Edwards asks, taking up a sponge and wiping the granite. Over Mrs. Edwards shoulder, Sydney can see through the window to the rose garden, or what is left of it." Then there is a description of the rose garden in decay. To have a genuine expression of sorrow met with such a rebuff would seem to call for some kind of response, discussion, feeling....but you won't find it here. Only a decaying rose garden. Perhaps this book was an experiment by Ms. Shreve. Perhaps in providing only the barest framework for this story, she wants the reader to supply the emotions, the full conversations, the happiness, all of the richness that makes a story unique. It left me feeling hollow and disappointed. It is not a terrible book, and if the choice is to read it/give it a pass, I would say to read it. But be forewarned, you are in for a clinical experience.

3 out of 5 stars A book that leaves questions unanswered.......2007-10-07

It's always a thrill to start reading a book by Anita Shreve. Her writing has a refreshing astringency, like tart lemon sherbet after one scoop too many of rocky road. Every sentence is weighted, and the reader joins the writer in observing and interpreting the action.

BODY SURFING is the story of Sydney Sklar, recently widowed, who is tutoring eighteen-year-old Julie Edwards at a beach house in New Hampshire. Julie's older brothers visit and sparks ignite between Sydney and Jeff.

Now comes the trouble with spare writing: the reader SEES the various love affairs unfolding, but they're hard to fathom. The chemistry has to be taken on faith. The drawing of a finger along a thigh inspires sensual longing? An underwater touch in the dark is received with intractable revulsion? A distant swimmer in a wetsuit arouses a young girl's first sexual passion? We know it because the author tells us so, but it's all a bit abstract. Lives are changed by these minimal encounters but the reader doesn't feel the heat; the plot seems somehow under-explained.

The characters, too, are described by their actions, with interpretation laid on. Somehow you know they're as complex as anyone else but the narrative doesn't quite do that complexity justice. We might wonder why Mrs. Edwards ever thought a summer of tutoring would get her "slow" daughter into a Seven Sisters college; how an architect never came to discover that his daughter is gifted with artistic talent; why neither of them ever noticed that she was a lesbian. And as for Sydney, she seems strong, smart and kind, is already twice-married, yet she can't spot a cad when she sees one and instantly agrees to marry him, apparently because of the thigh-stroking mentioned above.

There's nothing awful about this book; the writing itself is a treat, though maybe better suited to stories with a period setting like SEA GLASS or FORTUNE'S ROCKS. However it's not Anita Shreve's best. If you haven't read her, don't start here. But if you love her style, you'll probably find this book a passable read.

4 out of 5 stars A beach idyll.......2007-10-03

Twenty nine year old Sydney is employed by a family to tutor their backward 18 year old daughter in the hope of her gaining college admission. The girl's mother who treats Sydney as a servant, refuses to recognise that her daughter hasn't the mental ability to attend college and also is blind to the fact that the girl is stunningly beautiful and on the brink of a sexually active life. As Sydney has already been married twice, once divorced and once widowed, she is wary of the overtures made to her by the sons of the house when they come to the beach house for the summer, and takes an immediate dislike to the elder, as she is convinced that he groped her in the water while they were all swimming. She soon begins an intense love affair with the younger son which leads to very high drama and a complete change of life for her. It was a quick, pleasant read, written with Anita Shreve's usual style and one which her fans will enjoy immensely.

5 out of 5 stars Anita Shreve is a five star novelist!.......2007-09-11

Once again Anita Shreve brings you into the novel. Her writing is excellent. I always am anxiously awaiting the next novel....not soon enough for me. The characters in her novels become your friends or part of your family. What a gift Anita Shreve possesses.

2 out of 5 stars Love Anita Shreve, very disappointed though........2007-09-11

I have read every single one of Anita Shreve's books. I am a huge fan & was so happy when I heard she had a new book coming out. I was so disappointed, however. This had the potential to be great, but it flopped. The characters were not developed, the main character did not grow in any way throughout the book, and I felt the end was not the end. I felt that she just gave up at the end & wasn't sure where to take it, so didn't try. I kept expecting something horrific like someone dying as in the rest of her books.

All in all, she is still my favorite author, but I am so sad that this book didn't measure up to her other amazing work.
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman
Average customer rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars
  • A Model For Humane Business
  • Who knew that Patagonia had a mean side?
  • let my people go surfing
  • An Opus on Business, Management, and Environmental Action
  • You've got to read this one
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman
Yvon Chouinard
Manufacturer: Penguin (Non-Classics)
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback

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ASIN: 0143037838

Amazon.com

Like the carefully engineered dies which created his company's first products--steel pitons and carabiners which climbing enthusiasts would recognize as primitive forerunners of today's sleeker gear--Yvon Chouinard is if nothing else an original. How many other shy French-Canadian boys become surf-and-climbing bums, then blacksmiths forging their own play tools, and eventually founders of world-renowned sports equipment and apparel companies like Patagonia? How many other heads of multi-million dollar enterprises open their memoirs by stating bluntly, "The Lee Iacoccas, Donald Trumps, and Jack Welches of the business world are heroes to no one except other businessmen with similar values. I wanted to be a fur trapper when I grew up." The proverbial mold from which Chouinard was cast got broken.

In Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman, readers get a fascinating look inside the history and philosophy of both Patagonia and its irascible, opinionated founder. From its beginning, the book shares a sense of Chouinard's strong-willed personality and his love of the outdoors. He recounts a mostly happy childhood spent in a still-unspoiled southern California, climbing, diving, fishing, and surfing. The narrative soon moves into Chouinard's early entrepreneurial efforts, which were less focused on market-share domination than on earning a basic living to finance his own sporting habits. As his company's first catalog noted, delivery could be slow in the summer months, when Chouinard typically left the "office"--a dilapidated shack converted into an ironworks--for climbing adventures across the American West.

Eventually, though, the story settles into a pattern familiar to business audiences: Patagonia grows rapidly, takes on more employees and product lines to sustain hungry demand from customers, but overreaches with over-ambitious expansion plans and suffers a hiccup in its adolescence. This make-or-break juncture of a business's development often contains the most interesting material, and here Chouinard and his beloved company are no exception. He describes a series of wrenching decisions through which he and Patagonia management team navigated in 1991, as sales growth stalled while capital and operational expenses sprinted ahead. From this crisis emerged Patagonia's first-ever layoffs, affecting a hefty 20% of the workforce, and a serious re-examination of the business's core principles and methods.

The historical part of Chouinard's book largely ends at this point, and gives way to an exposition of philosophies which emerged at Patagonia during its dark moments in the early 1990s. The rest of the book serves as a kind of primer to business, the Patagonia way: one chapter each on product design philosophy, production philosophy, distribution philosophy, image philosophy, financial philosophy, human resource philosophy, and so on. Fans of Patagonia can revel in the company's working details, as can those who support or want to build businesses with self-consciously cultivated soulfulness. Readers who enjoyed Gary Erickson's story about Clif Bar, for example, should definitely find this a welcome addition to their bookshelves. --Peter Han

Book Description

In his long-awaited memoir, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life—a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

Customer Reviews:

5 out of 5 stars A Model For Humane Business.......2007-10-15

Conscious review of all aspects of business is the theme here.

Yvon is definitely strong in his beliefs about what needs to happen. He doesn't pussy-foot around the issues. As he states "Patagonia's image is a human voice. It expresses the joy of people who love the world, who are passionate about their beliefs, and who want to influence the future. It is not processed; it won't compromise its humanity. This means that it will offend, and it will inspire."

The book will have the effect you choose to let if have upon you. For me, it was completely inspirational as a model to operate in. Truth be told, even if everyone operated the way advocated, we probably will not get out of the mess we are headed for. However, in the words of Ghandi, "Everything you do is insignificant, but it is very important that you do it."

I read the book as an emerging consciousness - first self concern, then concern for the interests of other people, then concern for other beings, finally concern for the balance of the ecosystem. It is an ethical progression that we all should make, even though it is not a cultural norm.

Well worth reading. Well argued from the environmental or business perspective.

2 out of 5 stars Who knew that Patagonia had a mean side?.......2007-10-04

Yvon Chouinard built an iconic business which exemplifies commerce with a conscience. I have long been enamored of their products, the photography, and the essays of their catalogs. As a surfer and career environmentalist I was anxious to read this book.

Yvon shared some interesting philosophical perspectives. He takes the position that people who believe the earth to have been created and not the result of evolution are hiding in their faith from the facts. Furthermore, because creationists don't believe in evolution they don't aspire to improve. (Clearly, Yvon never heard of the doctrine of sanctification.) He argues that abortion is a means by which we can keep too many children from being born and then over-running the carrying capacity of the ecosystem. And Republicans? Don't get him started! He might be the only mean spirited Zen Buddhist of whom I have had the displeasure to read.

There is so much to commend here with regard to encouraging businesses and individuals to be environmentally and socially engaged. Too bad the message is soured with arrogance, condescension, and obvious ignorance of those he apparently considers to be enemies of the environment.

4 out of 5 stars let my people go surfing.......2007-09-01

this book is an inspirational page turner until it gets to the philosophy section which is good and interesting, but the first half is really, really good. i would highly recommend it for all 20-40 year olds that are thinking about changing up their careers to something more fulfilling.

5 out of 5 stars An Opus on Business, Management, and Environmental Action.......2007-08-16

Yvon writes clearly and succinctly about his triumphs and mistakes. He's fanatical about product quality but insists on his MBA style of management (management by absence). He shows how doing the right thing is frequently profitable and Patagonia has been a field leader ever since Chouinard decided early on that his petons were destroying the rocks that he climbed on. Making a daring move away from his top selling product to a new product, the hexentric nuts; that would not wreck the rock, proved to be a genius move. Since then, Patagonia has lead the field with material science in using PCR soda bottles in their fleece jackets, making the switch to Organic Cotton, and building the Reno, Nevada Service Center out of all sorts of recycled materials and green technologies

Yvon also discusses how childcare and healthy cafeteria food contribute to a more productive work environment. He rewards employees for purchasing hybrid or alternative fuel vehicles.

Patagonia publishes catalogs that are artful for their photography while at the same time they are calls to action on various environmental issues. There is no push to higher priced products or mega sale enticement. Patagonia has become the best in the outdoor industry by challenging the status quo and daring to be different. It's Yvon's disdain for the mentality of behaving like a sheep and blindly following the current trends whether in business or life that make him extraordinary. It is my hope that he will produce more books of this quality in the future. I finished the book in three days- I couldn't put it down.Patagonia: Notes from the Field

5 out of 5 stars You've got to read this one.......2007-07-02

Whether you're looking for a case study on: a successful business with happy employees, how to create a business from your passion, or what businesses need to do to help the environment.

From management tips, to HR lessons learned, Yvon brings in all his Patagonia experience (good and bad).

As one of the first environmentally-conscious companies in the world, Yvon has a lot to say about the world and what needs to happen:

"The Zen master would say if you want to change government, you have to aim at changing corporations, and if you want to change corporations, you first have to change the consumers." -Yvon Chouinard

This is a book you can't ignore. Especially since Yvon pioneered the `green business' movement back in the 80's.
Maui Trailblazer: Where to Hike, Snorkel, Paddle, Surf, Drive (Hawaiian Hiking Guides)
Average customer rating: 5 out of 5 stars
  • Everything under the Maui sun
  • Our precious Maui guide
  • Rates Ten Big Stars
  • Recreation Guide for Maui
  • Go soon!
Maui Trailblazer: Where to Hike, Snorkel, Paddle, Surf, Drive (Hawaiian Hiking Guides)
Jerry Sprout , and Janine Sprout
Manufacturer: Diamond Valley Company
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback

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ASIN: 0967007240

Book Description

A guide for families and outdoor adventurers alike, Maui Trailblazer 2006 covers all of the island, and includes day trips to the neighboring islands of Molokai, Lanai, and Molokini.

Clear directions and concise descriptions lead to all of Maui's well-known attractions, as well as to hidden discoveries that Trailblazer readers have come to expect.

137 different hikes and strolls to tropical rain forests and remote valleys, coastal bluffs and lava caves, Haleakala crater and the Hana Highway, cascading waterfalls, beaches, ridgetops, towns, whale-watching perches, historic sites, and archeological ruins.

Among the 44 snorkeling spots are hike-to coves and the secret places that tour boats go.

Kayakers can pick from about 20 put-ins.

Surfers can select from 38 beaches and decide whether to boogie, board, or body surf. Onlookers will find the best places to watch the surfers, windsurfers and kite-boarders ride the big ones.

The text is complimented by 10 maps and 240 photographs. Driving tours-nine of them-take readers to all the attractions, natural wonders, and historic sites.

A Resource Links section provides numbers for free visitor information and recreational outfitters, as well as hand-picked accommodations and local restaurants to suit every budget and taste bud.

A Best Of section lets you pick the right activity to suit your mood and the day. Appendices include free hula shows, farmer's markets, what to pack, climate, history, fauna, and a Hawaiian glossary.

This new and completely revised second edition for 2006 includes a Trailblazer Kids section for adventuring families.

Customer Reviews:

5 out of 5 stars Everything under the Maui sun.......2007-10-08

All the fun stuff. My teenage boys loved it and wanted to try everything they listed. Our hikes were group affairs, waterfall destinations being first choice, Haleakala took second. This book is organized by region with all the activities linked to the highway mile markers and cross referenced on the interior maps. This saved us time and we also spent less on gas.

In six days we really covered ground. We drove the entire beautiful coast stopping here and there to snorkel where they indicated it was best for beginners. Excels when it comes to easily finding the snorkeling and hiking zones and wild beaches. We are big Trailblazer fans now.

5 out of 5 stars Our precious Maui guide.......2007-05-22

Maui was new to us. This guide ranked quite highly for navigating and made driving the circle tour so interesting. We frequently used the large index. The guide is laid out with all the activities logically numbered, like a reference catalog (spiked with humor and tips). Also, they streamlined their list of hotels and only include the ones they would stay in, mostly affordable - same with restaurants. We prereserved an oceanside hotel room in Kihei and would stay there again. It had a nice beach access for winding down at sunset.

Full page maps are in each section and since this island is so small they accentuate the stops that rank highly and coincide with the beach and trails they describe. It made sense in every way and the only time we joined the tourist mill was on the Hana Coast - we should have left at dawn like they said. Another thing we liked is the all space they've given to landscape photographs which helped greatly with our everyday destination decisions.

5 out of 5 stars Rates Ten Big Stars.......2007-04-13

We took our family of five to Maui for spring break. The sunny wonderful weather and this guide added up to a perfect first visit. Our Trailblazer served as a super beach guide since the kids wanted to spend most of their time in the water. On the Hana Road it directed us to fresh water pools with waterfalls that weren't far to get to. We hiked through bamboo forests. We learned what plate lunches are all about. If you're looking for adventure and a guide with all the directions, get this. It definitely has more activities than any other book we looked at.

Bonus: good organization, safety and driving tips, maps, heavy on the photos

5 out of 5 stars Recreation Guide for Maui.......2007-04-10

Get the most out of your Maui vacation with this outdoor activity guide. Specific directions to each activity will save you time and frustration.

5 out of 5 stars Go soon!.......2007-03-16

The advice I share with anyone I know who's going is to buy this book. My girlfriend and I took a week off from work to go adding the two weekends. At six in the morning we were in foggy cold San Jose and by late afternoon the same day were swimming in 70 degree water off the Kihei coast. What helped tremendously were the pictures and directions along the Hana Highway. It took all day to drive it but we got full value knowing the right turnoffs to Red Sand Beach and Honomanu Bay and Keanae Village. It was amazing how much we fit into one day. We did everything guided by these guys who've combed the island and packaged it all in this fun and spirited book. It's organized and for getting out on foot and seeing the sites was our best investment.
Leroy Grannis: Surf Photography of the 1960s and 1970s
Average customer rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars
  • In My Opinion......
  • Surf Photography of the 60's and 70's
  • Stunning
  • Grannis is the Master !!
  • His best stuff isn't in this book.
Leroy Grannis: Surf Photography of the 1960s and 1970s
Steve Barilotti
Manufacturer: Taschen
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 382284859X

Book Description

Capturing the perfect wave

"The book has the effect of a time capsule, bringing back an era that continues to resonate for us in shades of Technicolor and black and white." - Los Angeles Times Book Review, Los Angeles

At a time when surfing is more popular than ever, it's fitting to look back at the years that brought the sport into the mainstream. Developed by Hawaiian islanders over five centuries ago, surfing began to peak on the mainland in the 1950s, taking America--and the world--by storm. Surfing became not just a sport, but a way of life, and the culture that surrounded it was admired and exported across the globe. One of the key image-makers from that period is LeRoy Grannis, a surfer since 1931, who began photographing the scene in California and Hawaii in the longboard Gidget era of the early 1960s.

Customer Reviews:

5 out of 5 stars In My Opinion.............2007-08-23

In my opinion, this book is one of THE BEST surf books ever. The visuals are clean and classic and takes one back to the golden age of surfing. The writing is short but informative. LeRoy Grannis put his stamp in this world and is a legend among all surf photographers. I am a big fan of Mr. Grannis and of surfing as well.
Buy the book, put it on your coffee table, have some friends over and discuss.

4 out of 5 stars Surf Photography of the 60's and 70's.......2007-08-13

This was purchased as a gift - specifically requested by the recepient - and so I have never seen it - but they said they loved it - very beautiful pictures that brought back lots of memories for them....

5 out of 5 stars Stunning.......2007-07-10

"Granny"s magnificent book is a must for any surfer's library. The art of Leroy Grannis' photographs is not only his beautiful composition and exposure, but also his portrayal of the ambiance, exuberance, and joy of the surfing world of the 1960's and 1970's. He has incitefully memorialized the icons of the period.

5 out of 5 stars Grannis is the Master !!.......2007-07-06

LeRoy Grannis is the Master of California and Hawaii's burgeoning surf culture. His photographs become your eyes in the critical moment, whether in the water or on the beach. Grannis found the action, as if nobody knew he was there. Every surfer should own this beautiful book...a treasure of surfing's greatest moments !!

2 out of 5 stars His best stuff isn't in this book........2007-06-01

It depends on what you're looking for. Yes there are many pages of nice photos of SoCal 1960s beach culture, and lots of pages are taken up with the surfmag ads Grannis shot, for boards and boardshorts. But I was hoping for and expected the majority of the photos to be of SURFING! There are surf photos but not enough. Plus I was expecting to see certain awesome photos Grannis took, Johnnie Fain in a radical bottom turn at overhead Malibu, Dora hanging five, Butch Van Artsdalen flying down a bitchin' big Pipeline wall on a longboard; classic stuff and the very best of Grannis. Unfortunately not a single one of those shots are in the book. They ARE available on his website, for sale in collections of 9 for the absurd price of between $3000 and $7000!!!
The Encyclopedia of Surfing
Average customer rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars
  • A MUST HAVE FOR ANY SURFER
  • The only review written by a 46-year-old woman in the Midwest
  • A top pick for any interested in the fine art of surfing
  • Like Surfers Journal... almost
  • Really IS and Encyclopedia
The Encyclopedia of Surfing
Matt Warshaw
Manufacturer: Harcourt
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 0151005796

Amazon.com

What's that sound coming from the beach? That's the rustle of pages turning, as would-be immortals look themselves up in The Encyclopedia of Surfing, surfing's first comprehensive reference book. The Encyclopedia of Surfing chronicles nearly every bit of wave-riding--its history, places, mythology, champions, tragedies, in-jokes, and minutiae. Author Matt Warshaw, former editor of Surfer magazine, and his fellow researchers took three years to put together this prodigious tome. The most surprising thing about the book is its terrific readability. Though the 1,500 entries are organized in typical encyclopedic style, one after the other alphabetically, none of them--not a single one--is completely boring. Not even the one on the technicalities of fin placement. In fact, the book is a trap, leading unsuspecting readers on a wandering journey from pioneer surfer Duke Kahanamoku to the development of hollow boards to the lifeguards who used them to lifeguard Eddie Aikau to his home in Waimea Bay to.... Suddenly, hours have gone by and there's still the huge entry on Gidget to read. Illustrated like a dictionary, this book has only one or two small black-and-white photos every couple of pages. A history of surfing introduces the entries; at the end, a bibliography, round-up of surf contest results, and lists of movies, magazines, and music provide the big finish. Though Warshaw's first three books (SurfRiders, Above the Roar, and Maverick's) were entertaining looks at surfers and surfing, this one makes him the official Kahuna of surf lore. Surfing is a multi-billion-dollar industry, flinging hordes of people and buckets of money into the waves each year. The Encyclopedia of Surfing is its new bible. --Therese Littleton

Book Description

Everybody's going surfing. Each year, the surf industry brings in $4.5 billion, and more than two-and-a-half million Americans, from California to Delaware, have caught the wave. Surfers have popped up on postage stamps, in television commercials, and in Hollywood movies, and the sport has developed the remarkable depth, color, and history that can only be cataloged in encyclopedic form.

With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, The Encyclopedia of Surfing is the most comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport by "one of surfing's most knowledgeable historians" (San Francisco Chronicle). A remarkable collection of expert knowledge, spine-tingling stories, and little-known trivia, this is a book that no surfer-or armchair adventurer-will be able to resist.

Customer Reviews:

5 out of 5 stars A MUST HAVE FOR ANY SURFER.......2006-01-28

If you are a surfer or interested in learning anything about the history and names in the sport past and present then you should immediately buy this book. Two copies. Matt Warshaw does an excellent job of detailing almost every major and minor aspect in the history of the sport from onshore wind to "nat young" to "new jersey". There are small black and white photos throughout the book as well. I guarantee you will learn alot from reading just one letter of the alphabet. After reading this book, you can start to talk like Sam George. Highly informative and hard to put down.

5 out of 5 stars The only review written by a 46-year-old woman in the Midwest.......2006-01-27

Or so I presume.

This book has the best history I've seen on Pacific Ready Cut Homes and that's why I purchased it. I'm the author of "California's Kit Homes" and had a devil of a time finding information on this Los Angeles-based company.

I bought "The Encyclopedia of Surfing" and was pleasantly surprised to find information about the company that brought us the Swastika Surfboard. Yes, they made wonderful (and heavy!)surfboards, but did you know they also made and sold 40,000 kit homes before they got into surfboards? (BTW, one Pacific Ready-Cut house had 30,000 pieces of house and a 75-page instruction book - and you thought putting together a VCR stand was tough.)

I also browsed other parts of the book and found it to be an informative and well-researched book.

Rose
author, California's Kit Homes

5 out of 5 stars A top pick for any interested in the fine art of surfing.......2004-04-04

Matt Warshaw's Encyclopedia Of Surfing is a top pick for any interested in the fine art of surfing. From different surfboard developments and the history of different cultures involved in the surfside sport, to legendary surfers and their achievements, the Encyclopedia Of Surfing is packed from cover to cover with "user friendly" A-Z reference material.

5 out of 5 stars Like Surfers Journal... almost.......2004-01-29

I surf almost every day and can never seem to quench my thirst. My favorite read, by far, of all books and periodicals is The Surfers Journal. It truly captures the many angles of the sport. This book is somewhat in the same vein. It's exhaustive, comprehensive and true to the roots. If you love the history of the sport buy it. If you read Surfing, have never ridden more than one type of board or never traveled to pursue a new wave... don't (do those things instead... THEN buy it). Good bedside book... alongside my Bible.

2 out of 5 stars Really IS and Encyclopedia.......2003-11-15

For the record, let me state that I've been surfing for 20 years and got the bug, along with most others my age, watching The Endless Summer and getting captivated by the energy and beauty of the sport. This compilation, while very complete, really IS an encyclopedia...page, after page, after page. There are some useful tidbits of information strewn among the lengthy volume but a large majority of the book seems filled with fairly uninteresting, small, black and white photos, and biographies of just about anyone in the world who ever attempted to stand up on a board. Avoid this snore-fest and put your money into a nice hardcover coffee table book filled with glorious color shots of the world's tube riders...and leave all of the trivia to the wannabes.
Greg Noll, The Art of the Surf Board
Average customer rating: 5 out of 5 stars
  • A classic
  • TELL THE TEACHER WE'RE SURFIN'.. SURFIN' USA!
  • The story behind the wave craft...
  • lush publication indeed!
  • Two Characters
Greg Noll, The Art of the Surf Board
Drew Kampion
Manufacturer: Gibbs Smith, Publisher
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 1586857762

Book Description

One of the greatest surfers of all time, Greg Noll has built a considerable reputation as master of surfboard making, or "shaping." Today, collectors and surfers alike prize his unique brand of board. Recently featured in the award-winning documentary feature, Riding Giants, "Da Bull," in his iconic black-and-white striped trunks, was emblematic of big surf and fearless commitment. In addition to being a pioneer of big-wave surfing, surf movies, and surf magazines, by the mid-1960s, Noll was one of the largest surfboard manufacturers in the world.

Customer Reviews:

5 out of 5 stars A classic.......2007-08-14

the best coffee table book that you can get for a surfer and a shaper. Great stories and pictures. Looks good too!

4 out of 5 stars TELL THE TEACHER WE'RE SURFIN'.. SURFIN' USA!.......2007-07-05

DREW KAMPION'S LATEST BOOK PROJECT IS A TOP DRAWER AFFAIR.

HAVING BEEN EDITOR AT BOTH 'SURFER MAGAZINE' AND 'SURFING MAGAZINE',DREW IS EXCEPTIONALLY WELL QUALIFIED TO DELVE INTO EXPLORATIONS OF THE SPORTS HISTORIC PASSAGES. THE ART OF THE SURFBOARD' DOCUMENTING GREG NOLL'S LIFE AND TIMES IS NO EXCEPTION. GREG NOLL AND THE SURFBOARDS THAT HE HAS LEFT IN HIS WAKE ARE INDEED LEGENDARY.

THE BOOK IS PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED; FOR MANY THIS ALONE IS ENOUGH TO JUSTIFY PURCHASING THE BOOK..... BUT FACTOR IN A CONFLUENCE OF KAMPION'S NEAR PERFECT HISTORICAL ACCURACY WITH GREG'S 20/20 CANDID HINDSIGHTS AND THIS RETROSPECTIVE HAS ALL THE MAKINGS OF A BOOK TO BE REFERENCED FOR DECADES TO COME.

IF YOU SHARE A PASSION FOR POST MODERN SURFING AND THE ATTENDING MYSTIQUE THAT SURROUNDS IT, DON'T MISS THIS BOOK

ALOHA,
MARK FRAGALE
KAILUA, HAWAII


5 out of 5 stars The story behind the wave craft..........2007-06-18

An infinitely deep look at THE quintessential legend of surfing, "Greg Noll: The Art of the Surfboard" is an honest, "no rock left unturned" retrospective of surfboard shaper/surfer/waterman Greg Noll. Leaf through the pages of this book and you're instantly captivated by a virtual kaleidescope of Noll's meticulously handcrafted, functional works of art, coupled with a treasure trove of stories well worth telling.

Kampion, a "literary savant of surfing's cultural record", has chronicled just about every aspect of the sport of kings, making him a natural choice to weave this tale. Here he takes on the insurmountable task of capturing Noll's endless contributions to surfcraft with his characteristic thirst for all things water-related.

The sheer amount of research that went into this book is unimaginable, and yet somehow reading it feels like you're simply talking story, Hawaiian style.

The best part about this book is that it's not just a historical register: Kampion also turns his lens at Noll's son Jed, and we get a glimpse of how Greg's skills with a sander and Surform are being passed down to another generation of board builders.

With every turn, "The Art of the Surfboard" is pure aloha. And no filler.















5 out of 5 stars lush publication indeed!.......2007-05-31

An ambitious project, a captivating and thoroughly enjoyable read. 'Greg Noll, The Art of Surfboard' has assumed it's rightful place in my home, right smack in the middle of my coffee table!
An essential part of any self respecting surfers library, even non surfers love this book......lush publication indeed!
I really appreciated the way in which Kampion so astutely and interestingly captured Noll's stunning legacy whilst revealing so many vital aspects of our surfing heritage.
Incredible research....simply awesome product!

Alan, Rainbow Bay, Queensland, Australia.



5 out of 5 stars Two Characters.......2007-05-26

Surfing is a pastime/activity/obsession/lifestyle (I can't bring myself to call it a... sport) unique in its history and characters (think renegades), and Noll is a unique character/renegade/lunatic even amongst that lot. Kampion, aside from being a character/renegade/lunatic his own self, is simply THE historian/chronicler/storyteller of the pastime/activity/obsession/lifestyle.

To put it another way: If you're over 40 and surf this book is mandatory.

If you're under 40 and surf: "mandatory" means you should read it.
Fit to Surf : The Surfer's Guide to Strength and Conditioning
Average customer rating: 4 out of 5 stars
  • Improve Your Surfing Level
  • Its a good help
  • Nice guide
  • awsome hardcore surf book
  • Right On!
Fit to Surf : The Surfer's Guide to Strength and Conditioning
Rocky Snyder
Manufacturer: International Marine/Ragged Mountain Press
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback

GeneralGeneral | Exercise & Fitness | Health, Mind & Body | Subjects | Books
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ASIN: 0071419535

Book Description

Fit to Surf, a cutting-edge surfing-specific fitness guide, supplies surfers of all levels of experience with everything they need to create a personal fitness program that builds strength and endurance, increases balance and coordination, and minimizes the risk of injury.

Personal trainer Rocky Snyder--himself an avid surfer with two decades of experience riding the waves--provides easy to-follow, step-by-step instructions supplemented with 60photographs of conditioning exercises that can be performed at home, in the gym, or on the water.

Customer Reviews:

5 out of 5 stars Improve Your Surfing Level.......2007-04-09

From new surfers all the way through professional, this surfing guide will help you improve your skill. Great workouts for the surfer are included.

4 out of 5 stars Its a good help.......2007-01-15

This book can be a good start for improving your surfing level.

4 out of 5 stars Nice guide.......2007-01-05

This is a nice guide for a newbie, for the wanna be pro, and for the top pro. I recommend it, but it lacks some more fine explanation and guidance, in terms of what we eat, how much we sleep, etc... basic performance stuff. Also, it gives us a lot of workouts, witch is very good, but it's more fitted to a person who has 4 hours to work out everyday, not 1.

5 out of 5 stars awsome hardcore surf book.......2005-07-21

if your learning how to surf and want to progress in this sport then you should chech this book out. full of many different kinds of workouts and it evens plans out workouts that fit your life style....a must have to your surf collection....

5 out of 5 stars Right On!.......2003-09-04

Since I don't get to surf everyday, this book is exactly what I needed to stay in surfing shape. I have a number of other fitness related books, but none address surfing fitness. This book gave me exactly what I've been looking for. I've since given it to a number of friends and they have all told me how helpful they have found it as well.
Surf Science: An Introduction To Waves For Surfing
Average customer rating: 4 out of 5 stars
  • Two words... "Surf Science"
  • Are you a surfer, an ocean enthusiast? Read it!
  • 32 bucks for pics of waves NO THANKS
  • great topical coverage
  • Great popular science book, not just for surfers
Surf Science: An Introduction To Waves For Surfing
Tony Butt
Manufacturer: University of Hawaii Press
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback

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ASIN: 0824828917

Book Description

Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it--just curiosity and a fascination for waves.

Customer Reviews:

5 out of 5 stars Two words... "Surf Science".......2007-08-23

Two words... "Surf Science".
And this is absolutely the best title for this book. A must have for all the surfers that are interested not only in surfing good waves, but for all of them that are interested in knowing how and why the waves break so well or so bad. Wind, wave perfection, cost line, sandbars, reefs, rocks, wave frequency, channels, hollowness, etc... every aspect that affects the wave is explored in this book with great depth.
Everything is very well explained in this book and in a language that is very accessible to all people.

5 out of 5 stars Are you a surfer, an ocean enthusiast? Read it!.......2007-01-05

I always lived in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and this is a very large "surf city". I have surfed recreationallly for about 20 years now, and I can say that this book should be read by anyone who likes surfing of any kind, or fishes by the ocean, or lives by the ocean, or just plain likes the ocean and live in a landlocked place.

Very easy reading, very good graphics, and very understandable for a very complicated issue. I'm buying almost all the book that the authors recommend.

1 out of 5 stars 32 bucks for pics of waves NO THANKS.......2006-09-28

Spend your money wisely; for 32 dollars you can get 24 issues of surfer mag. You'll learn alot more about surfing rather than make some author rich.

4 out of 5 stars great topical coverage.......2005-03-23

This book is written for the layman and has great illustrations to back up some very complicated topics ranging from climatology and atmospherics to answering the "simple" question: what makes a good wave?

If you have never studied weather patterns, buoys, or local surfbreaks, you stand to learn a lot from this book. It covers all aspects of wave science without the heavy textbook feel. Those with a formal science background will find this an easy read and be tempted to look into the references for a bit more of the equations behind the science.

One point that it did not cover was the physics in the surfing of waves. It hits hard on "what makes a wave" but doesn't touch the "what is surfing" question. Reading this book will not make you a better surferbut, it will teach you how waves form and yield some insight into wave prediction.

4 out of 5 stars Great popular science book, not just for surfers.......2005-01-24

I've never surfed in my life but read this book as a scientist with an interest in fluid mechanics. The book introduces a wide range of concepts and models, starting from large-scale climate patterns, to storms and generation of waves, to their propagation and evolution, taking the reader step-by-step through some rather complex phenomena. The writing is plain and accessible to a non-physicist, yet scientific, making this book a pleasure to read. My favourite section was probably the one on climate patterns, which discusses the atmosphere as a non-equilibrium, dissipative system driven by the energy of the Sun and coupled to the rotation of the Earth - and manages to do it quite well without introducing a single equation. For those wishing more mathematics, there is a list of references for further reading. I did find one or two minor blunders, such as the statement that "the equator is warmer than the poles because it is closer to the Sun" (the reason it is warmer is, of course, in the different incidence angles of sunlight), or equations with no units. Another warning is that this is a book about the physics of *waves*, not the hydrodynamics of surfing. But overall, this is a great piece of popular science. Any teacher who values problem-based learning will appreciate it - as, hopefully, will any surfer who wants to know why waves behave the way they do.
Photo/Stoner: The Rise, Fall, and Mysterious Disappearance of Surfing's Greatest Photographer
Average customer rating: 5 out of 5 stars
  • It was a gift - but excellent feedback from recipient
  • Incredible
  • Photo/Stoner: The Rise, Fall, and Mysterious Disappearance of Surfing's Greatest Photographer
  • C L A S S I C
  • great pictures
Photo/Stoner: The Rise, Fall, and Mysterious Disappearance of Surfing's Greatest Photographer
Matt Warshaw
Manufacturer: Chronicle Books
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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  1. Inside Maverick's: Portrait of a Monster Wave Inside Maverick's: Portrait of a Monster Wave
  2. Maverick's Maverick's

ASIN: 0811855333

Book Description

In 1965, Ron Stoner was the best surf photographer in the business. Every month, he shot the balmy beaches, bikini-clad girls, and achingly beautiful waves of Southern California for Surfer Magazine. Then, at the height of his fame, Ron Stoner walked off this sunny stage and disappeared forever. In Photo/Stoner, Stoner's strange story is recounted by surfing historian Matt Warshaw alongside Stoner's best photos, reproduced as never before. In these rare images, Stoner recorded more than just a beautiful wave or a perfect moment, he captured the effortless and innocent grace of coastal California pre-condominium. In word and in image, Photo/Stoner is a poignant ode to a lost era, and a lost man.

Customer Reviews:

4 out of 5 stars It was a gift - but excellent feedback from recipient.......2007-10-18

I think the title says it all "It was a gift - but excellent feedback from recipient".
They were happy with the gift!

5 out of 5 stars Incredible.......2007-07-12

So happy to see Ron Stoner's work has survived and is in print. A must for surfing afficiandos.

5 out of 5 stars Photo/Stoner: The Rise, Fall, and Mysterious Disappearance of Surfing's Greatest Photographer.......2007-04-12

Great, beautiful photoes and an excellent read of a social misfit in the same ilk as Van Gough

5 out of 5 stars C L A S S I C .......2007-04-02

If you like Surfing and Photography this is for you, all the classic Stoner photos and much more, Matt Warshaw and Jeff Divine made an amazing book, showing not just the photos but also a deep insight on Stoner's life, when you end seeing the book for the first time you know you did a right thing buying it.

5 out of 5 stars great pictures.......2007-03-11

This book brings back a lot of memories from when I surfed in the 60's in California. It is too bad where Ron eventually strayed, but the drugs caught up to him. Just a great table top book. Absolutely beautiful photography and written history.
Surfs Up: Collecting the Longboard Era (Schiffer Book for Collectors)
Average customer rating: Not rated
    Surfs Up: Collecting the Longboard Era (Schiffer Book for Collectors)
    Mark A. S. Blackburn
    Manufacturer: Schiffer Publishing
    ProductGroup: Book
    Binding: Hardcover

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    ASIN: 076431355X

    Book Description

    This is the first book to combine a detailed history of surfing, surfboards, and related collectible items with an accurate price guide. It gives a complete overview of sport surfing from its ancient beginnings in Polynesia and Hawaii until 1969, the end of the longboard era. Included are several innovative features, such as a grading guide for surfboards, Duke Kahanamokus handprints, and collectible surfing books with their current valuations. The items pictured are from many of the best private collections worldwide, and represent the enormous range of popular surfing memorabilia. The great icons of the sport all put in appearances to make this the book that all surf fans will covet.

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